July '22
This month, we’re returning to a varietal favourite. That’s right, pinot noir is back on the menu. But this isn’t your grandma’s pinot ‒ this is Patrick Sullivan’s pinot. You might be wondering what’s so great about Pat’s pinot. Well, we can’t wait to tell you.
The ‘21 Gippsland Pinot Noir is Patrick Sullivan’s signature pinot. It hails from the Strzelecki Ranges in South-West Gippsland and beautifully combines unique terroir and considered viticulture with an expressive variety to produce a bold, completely organic wine. Some might describe its style as natural ‒ and they wouldn’t be wrong ‒ but given there’s no strict definition for ‘natural’, we prefer to think of it as an honest, hands-off expression of meticulously managed fruit. Once you get this wine in your glass, you can taste the love… along with a riot of tart red berry fruit, sweet spicy oak and wild, earthy notes. In short, it’s damn delicious. Which is why we were determined to secure a handful of cases to share with our One Wine members.
Patrick Sullivan: farmer first, winemaker second.
Patrick Sullivan was 18 when he discovered his passion for wine. He was exploring the European wine scene with his old friend and regular collaborator, Xavier Goodridge. On returning to Australia, he dove into viticulture and winemaking head first. After a number of years studying and honing his craft, he set up his own project in Gippsland.
Pat considers himself a ‘vineyard’ guy before a winemaker and wants the exchange between winemaker and farmer to be at the heart of his winemaking. It manifests in honest farming, with a deep respect for the nuances and rhythms of the site, along with the ongoing quest for inherent drinkability that he considers a central tenet in his wines. It should come as no surprise that his vineyard in the Strzelecki Ranges is his pride and joy. On this plot of land, Pat farms with organic principals alongside Bill Downie, one of the most revolutionary winemakers of his generation.
So…how does it taste?
In a word: delicious.
This wine comes from Particks usual vineyard, as well as some purchased fruit from Central Gippsland due to low yields in 2021. As expected, this wine hums with energy and freshness. The nose and palate quickly come alive with tart red berries ‒ cranberry, currant and wild strawberries ‒ and subtle pops of sweet spice and liquorice that are well-balanced by signature savoury notes: wet leaf, mushrooms and earth, which point to this variety’s ability to capture the region's distinctive terroir. The acidity is vibrant and the fruit is pure and fresh, with beautiful aromatics ‒ it feels as though this pinot is dancing on your tongue.As with all Pat’s wines, this will certainly gain in complexity with cellaring. That said, this wine already looks very good right now, so don’t wait too long.
An hour west of Melbourne lie the lush, fertile hills of South-West Gippsland. As versatile as it is beautiful, this region has emerged as one of Australia's most exciting wine regions over the last decade. Driving this renaissance is a collaborative community of more than 50 wineries, including an intrepid new generation of winemakers embracing innovative viti- and vinicultural practices to produce memorable, envelope-pushing wines.
If you’ve ever been to this pristine pocket of the world, you’ll understand why so many first generation winemakers are making Gippsland their home ‒ it’s a region that gets under your skin. And if you haven’t? We suggest you start planning a trip. But bear in mind that Gippsland is vast, and home to myriad microclimates, varieties and wine styles. The Strzelecki Ranges, where Pat’s vineyards and winery are located, is a true cool-climate region moderated by maritime influences from the frequently stormy Bass Strait. Wineries here are known for their elegant chardonnay and pinot gris, but have found their true expression with superbly flavoured and structured pinot noir.
Simple artisan plates
Often named the most versatile grape, Pinot Noir is a fantastic pairing with a wide range of dishes.
For this Gippsland bottle we've kept it uncomplicated, much like the wine itself. Simple charcuterie board flavours of peppery meats and creamy local cheeses, balanced with pickled veg, salty olives, and soft bread. This wine is all about sitting back and relaxing over a glass or two with friends, no pressure to entertain – just simply enjoying the magic in the simple things of life.