Ros-éy!
We made it. Congratulations on another (successful?) trip around the sun, and thank you for being part of the journey. We’ve stuck with cool climate winemaking to celebrate December with Australia’s greatest Rosé (there we said it); year in year out the one we are ordering on wine lists and drinking at any opportunity we can get our hands on it (which is not very often to be fair).
December ‘23 is the ‘22 Il Pinko from Cobaw Ridge in the Macedon Ranges. Don’t drink this wine too cold –around 12 degrees is our recommendation.
Mainland Australia’s coolest GI, and second nationwide behind Tasmania, the Macedon Ranges is a short 45 minute drive northwest of Melbourne (worth a visit). It’s a high risk, high reward wine region, with untimely frost, rain, and mildew pressure often devastating to yields. When it’s good, it’s exceptional: responsible for arguably the most Burgundian expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the country. While its wine is most certainly in vogue at present, Macedon is not a reactive wine region, and has established a unique position in the market.
Cobaw Ridge
The winery was established in 1985 by Alan and Nelly Cooper. Vines were planted on granitic, sandy soil in the cool climate Macedon Ranges, on the cusp of the Great Dividing Range at 610 metres above sea level. Their positioning, in a natural amphitheatre, provides the perfect place to produce terroir-driven wines. 100% estate grown, they are now fully certified organic and biodynamic. Cobaw Ridge released Australia’s first commercial Lagrein in 1998, an ancient grape variety heralding from the Alto Adige region in northern Italy. The release of the ‘22 vintage wines marks their 34th release; this season the oldest vines are heading into their 39th growing season – some of the most established in the region.
Speaking on the vintage, Nelly & Alan from Cobaw Ridge commented:
“In one word the ‘22 vintage could well and truly be consigned into the “cool” years. Some would say extremely cool ... back to early ‘90s vintage conditions in all the years no two have ever been the same but the cooler ones are always the most challenging! All the wines are showing (surprise, surprise) the mark of the season as they should! Taut, mineral and nerve acidity but abundant expressive fine fruit intensity to the fore.”
Il Pinko
The Il Pinko Rosé is made from 100% biodynamically farmed Syrah, grown on the picturesque Cobaw Ridge estate vineyard. The cool climate of the Macedon Ranges produces Syrah of elegance and spice. When turned into a Rosé you get a wine of quiet complexity and detail.
A little richer and a touch more fruit focussed than it has been in the past, the wine was made under their regular methods: very gently pressed, the juice naturally fermented and matured utilising large old white french oak and Qvevri (more on that later). The wine went through full malolactic fermentation and zero sulfur dioxide was added until post blending prior to bottling. Classic pale salmon pink. Showing some fine spice and syrah herbs on the nose. The wine has great focus and interest; an amazing tussle of texture and concentration.
As the ‘22 vintage has only just been released there are no current reviews. We chatted to a master sommelier who thinks the ‘22 is better than the ‘21. Use their judgement and some of the ‘21 reviews to get a picture of how highly regarded this is (and why it always sells out so quickly) -
Qvevri
Qvevri are large earthenware vessels used for the fermentation, storage and ageing of traditional Georgian wine. Resembling large, egg-shaped amphorae without handles, they are either buried below ground or set into the floors of large wine cellars. Kvevris vary in size: volumes range from 20 to around 10,000 litres; 800 is typical.
Archaeological excavations in the southern Georgian region of Kvemo Kartli uncovered evidence of grape pips and qvevris dating back to the 6th millennium B.C. Proponents of qvevri claim that it makes wine that is stable by nature, rich in tannins, and that it does not require chemical preservatives to ensure long life and flavour.
'Tis the season to be jolly, and we've got just the pairing to sprinkle some holiday magic into your December nights. This cool cat from the Macedon Ranges is as smooth as Bublé's voice and as delightful as unwrapping presents on Christmas morning.