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December '22

2017 Clover Hill Vintage Brut & 2021 Sutton Grange Fairbank Rosé

A festive combo of fine fizz and pink perfection

December is here, which means that in just a few short weeks we’ll be saying farewell to 2022 welcoming 2023. (We know, we can hardly believe it either.) So as we all make this final dash to the New Year and all the fun and frivolity that the silly season brings, we’ve decided to double down on the celebratory spirit this month with not one, but two festive wines: the 2017 Clover Hill Vintage Brut and the 2021 Sutton Grange Fairbank Rosé. 

A killer combo of fine fizz and pink perfection, these two drops are firm favourites here at One Wine HQ. And we can think of better wines to have on hand for some seasonal summer fun. Naturally, these are not just any pair of pink and fizz. In true One Wine style, we’ve selected award-winning examples of their respective categories, each hailing from small, dedicated producers in rising Aussie regions. Needless to say, they’ve also passed (nay, exceeded) our rigorous taste test standards and we’re certain you’ll love these wonderfully fun, fresh, flavoursome wines that will have you reaching for a second glass ‒ the most important measure to judge a wine by, right?

Festive Fizz: 2017 Clover Hill Vintage Brut

Located in Northern Tasmania, Clover Hill is an exceptional site in the Piper’s River region, which is Australia’s coolest viticultural climate and widely considered to be the best sparkling wine region ‒ with some examples rivalling those of Champagne. So, what makes fizz from this part of Tassie so good? Well, it’s largely down to the region’s cool climate, long sunny days and fertile, iron‒rich soils, which create the perfect conditions for high-quality fruit from the classic sparkling varieties: chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier.

In especially good years like 2017, when the fruit is exceptional, the Clover Hill Vintage Brut is made. Unlike Non-Vintage wines, which are a blend across multiple years, vintage wines come from a single harvest and typically spend 4‒5 years maturing on lees, resulting in a richer style of sparkling with plenty of breadth and toasty character. 

A blend of the three key champagne varieties, the emphasis here is on chardonnay (64%) which gives this wine wonderful freshness and mineral tension, with plenty of citrus and orchard fruit. The pinot noir (31%) and meunier (5%) round the palate out with crunchy red berry fruit and a savoury structure that complements the fine, creamy mousse. Perfect paired with antipasti, freshly shucked oysters and the stroke of midnight. 

"Méthode traditionnelle. 64/31/5% chardonnay/pinot noir/meunier; Pipers River; partial maturation in small-format French oak foudres and barriques; aged 46 months on lees; disgorged Dec '21; 6g/L dosage of reserve wines. There's a great energy to Pipers River chardonnay in 2017, consummately toned here with clever deployment not only of red grapes but of oak maturation. Lemon zest and white peach body are intricately upheld within a firmament of exotic spice, toast and wild honey. Phenolic bite unites with driving acidity on a finish that will lavish further age."

93 points

Tyson Stelzer | Halliday Wine Companion

Pink Picnic Perfection: 2021 Fairbank Rosé

One of the earliest Australian champions of the pale, dry Provencal style of rosé, Sutton Grange certainly knows a thing or two about making elegant pink wine. Unlike a lot of rosés on the market, which tend to be fruit-driven and two‒dimensional, the Fairbank is fresh and accessible while still offering a serious, contemplative drinking experience. 

This is because Sutton Grange doesn't make rosé as the by-product of red wine production, and even has a section of the vineyard dedicated to rosé production. The grapes are a blend of three different varieties: syrah (31%) sangiovese (22%) and cabernet sauvignon (47%), which gives this wine a unique flavour profile that combines juicy red berry fruit, hints of musk and savoury notes.The fruit is whole-bunch pressed and left in cold soak overnight to preserve its red berry fruit and bright natural acidity. The juice then goes through wild fermentation in old French oak before maturation on lees for three months, giving the wine a soft creamy texture to complement all that zesty acidity.

In the glass it’s crisp, light and refreshing, with flavour of strawberries, blood orange and hints of thyme, making this cheeky little pink is the quintessential picnic wine. Best enjoyed ice cold on a warm summer’s afternoon with some roast chicken sandwiches, potato salad and a nap for dessert.

"A blend of cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, sangiovese and viognier. All grapes grown on the estate, hand picked, whole-bunch pressed, fermented in old French oak. A wine with a big following and it's easy to see why. Copper-pink tea-rose hues are easy on the eye, the perfumed strawberry, raspberry fruit, bracken and light musk aromas and flavours equally inviting. Restrained and composed, with great balance."

95 points

Jeni Port | Halliday Wine Companion
Impress your guests with these wine party starters

1. Do you know how to open your fizz like the pros? Well, the secret to opening your Clover Hill like a Master Somm is to hold the base of the bottle in one hand, and grip the cork tightly with the other. Then, twist the bottle ‒ not the cork ‒ for a smooth release and a joy-inspiring plop! 

2. Ever wondered what makes pink wines pink? From pale copper to deep blush, the colour comes from the same place as in red wines ‒ the grape skins. But instead of spending days, weeks or even months soaking on the skins and turning a vibrant ruby, rosé wines only spend a short time on skins to give it a gentle pink hue. The length of soaking is generally a couple of hours, but timing can vary depending on how deeply coloured the winemaker wants the wine to be.

3. Clover Hill is made using the traditional method ‒ or methode traditionale ‒  which is the same style of winemaking used in Champagne. It involves transferring a still base wine into a bottle, adding some yeast and a small amount of sugar, then sealing it for at least 18 months. During this time, the wine goes through a secondary fermentation which produces fine bubbles, a lot of pressure and those signature toasty, bready characters we simply adore. 

4. Speaking of fermentation, the Fairbank Rosé undergoes something called a “wild fermentation”. This means that the yeasts used to convert the natural grape sugars into alcohol are native to Sutton Grange. Unlike cultivated yeasts, which are created in labs to produce consistent flavours, fermentation flavours and characteristics, native or indigenous yeasts are unique to the vineyard the fruit comes from and often have a distinctive character that can’t be replicated. 

'Tis the season for feasting

Toast to the season with the Clover Hill Vintage Brut, perfectly paired with antipasti, freshly shucked oysters, prawns, and cheeses to kick off the celebrations. Or save this one for the stoke of midnight and ring in the New Year with fireworks and golden bubbles.

When the sun is behaving, the Fairbank Rosé is best enjoyed ice cold with some roast chicken sandwiches, potato salad and a nap for dessert.

The playlist

Every December you know it's going to be Mariah on repeat. We've thrown in the classics, a bit of jazz, and of course those Chrismas belters to really get in the festive mood.

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